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Make by TFS

Cass Pant — Sew Along

Cass Pant — Sew Along

1 — Interfacing and Pre-Pressing

1 Interfacing
2 Fusing with Iron

First, cut out your pattern pieces. We recommend block fusing the pattern pieces that require interfacing.

Block fusing is a technique where you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps avoid interfacing slippage and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once.

8 Cut out Pieces v2

For the Cass Pant, these pattern pieces that require fusing are,

1. Left Waistband and Left Waistband Facing
2. Right Waistband and Right Waistband Facing
3. Jets
4. Jet Pocket Bearer
5. Fly Facing

If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape!

3 Back Panels
3 Front Panels

Take your front and back pieces and press the hem seam allowance up 1cm towards the wrong side as indicated by the notch. Next fold the hem up a further 4cm, in line with the notches, and press again. The finished hem depth will measure 4cm.

4 Folding Beltloops 1

Take the belt loop piece into thirds lengthwise as indicated by the notches with the right side out. The finished belt loop piece will measure 1.3cm.

10 Pockets

Press your front pocket bags in half at the centre notches, right sides together.

7 Folding Step by Step 1

Take the back button loop pieces and press in half. Unfold and press 5mm in towards the centre crease line. Your finished pieces will measure 5mm in width.

9 Back Pocket pieces folded

Now, fold the jet pieces in half lengthwise and press.

2 — Constructing the Backs and Jet Pockets

1 Sewing Darts in Back Panels
2 Back Panel with Darts

Take your back leg pieces and neaten centre back and inner leg edges separately. Sew the two darts on the back trouser piece. Press the darts towards the centre back.

3 Back Panel with Darts and Interfusing For Pocket

Apply the jet pocket opening interfacing as indicated on the Jet Pocket Template to the wrong side of the pants. Take your time to centre your interfacing over the dart points exactly. The fusing should extend 3.5cm either side of the dart points and 1.6cm above and below. Repeat for the other side.

5 Folded and Sewn

Fold and pin your jet pieces in half with the wrong sides together and stitch them closed with a 6mm seam.

6 Back Pocket Button Loop

Fold your button loop pieces in half and give them a press. Open out again then bring the outer edges to meet in the centre and then fold them in half again lengthwise. Edgestitch to close then fold them into a 'U' shape.

4 Back Pocket Lining with Darts
4 Bearer Is Attached

Now we will sew the pocket bags. Start by sewing the darts at both ends of the jet pocket bag with the wrong sides together. The dart excess will be on the right side of the pocket bag.

Neaten the long, unnotched edge of the jet pocket bearer with your overlocker or preferred method. Now, pin the jet pocket bearer to the pocket bag. The wrong side of the jet pocket bearer to the right side of the pocket bag, matching up the notches. Edgestitch in place the pocket bearer in place around all four sides.

5 Measuring From Darts
7 Pencil Mark Pocket Placement On Bag

Transfer the jet pocket opening markings from the Jet Pocket Template to the right side of your back trouser piece. The line will go through the dart points and extend 2.5cm past each dart point, measuring 13cm in total. Transfer the same marking to the right side of your jet pocket bag. Make sure you use chalk or a pen that comes off easily once you’re finished so you're not left with marks.

10 Button Hole Sewn

With the back leg in front of you, right side up, place the button loop, folded as shown, in the centre of the pocket opening. Use your Jet Pocket Template as a guide. Line the raw edges up with the slash line and baste in place.

12 Pin Lower Pocket Flap
15 Sew Upper Pocket Flap

Now we will place the jet pieces. Line up the raw edge of the jet piece with the pocket opening line you marked earlier. The notches on the jet will align with the ends of the pocket opening line. Ensure that all edges line up and everything is centred then pin your jet piece in place. Sew the jet with a 6mm seam, starting and stopping exactly at the notches. It can help to mark the end of your stitching on the jet pieces to make sure you stop at the right place. Repeat for the second jet piece.

15a Match Pocket Flap Notches
Take your time to ensure the stitching on your jet pieces are the same length as this will affect the final appearance of your pocket.
17 Match Pocket Bag To Pant And Pin
18 Sew Pocket Bag To Pant

Next, lay your jet pocket bag on top of the jets with the right side down. The jet pocket bearer will be towards the hem of the pants, facing down. Pin the pocket bag in place and then sew the pocket down along the same lines as the jet pieces.

19 Cut Pocket Bag

Now we will cut the pocket opening. Using a pair of sharp scissors, cut through both the pocket bag and the pant leg along the slash line, finishing 1cm before each end. You may find it easier to cut each layer separately. Next, clip into the corners through all layers. Get as close as you can to your stitching without cutting through it.

22 Pull Bag Through

Pull the pocket and the ends of the jet pieces through to the wrong side.

24 1
21 Pocket Opening Edges Serged

Neaten the raw edge of the lower jet with your overlocker. Make sure you hold the pocket bag and back leg piece out of the way so they don’t get caught!

27 Show Triangle
30 Stitched Triangle

Fold back your trouser leg piece and the pocket bag to find the little triangle that was created when you cut the pocket open. Wriggle the jet pieces so they sit flat, with the folded edges touching and the short ends even. Pull the triangle tab so it sits as flat as possible without distorting the fabric. Now, stitch the triangle to the jet pocket bag and jet pieces, back tacking to secure. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.

32 Press Front Front

Press your jet pocket, making sure everything is lying flat.

33 Fold Leg Into Pocket

Next, we will sew the pocket bag. Fold your trouser leg to fit inside the upper section of the pocket bag piece.

34 Fold up Pocket and Pin
36 Trim

Fold the pocket bag in half with the wrong sides together and sew each side closed with a 6mm seam. Trim the seam back to 3mm, taking care not to get too close to your stitching.

37 Pull Through
38 Pull Through Otherside

Pull the back leg out through the opening at the waist of the pocket bag.

41a Underside Sewn

Press the pocket bag and stitch each seam again at 6mm to form a French seam. Baste the top of the pocket bag to the top edge of the back leg piece. Now give your pocket bag another press!

43 Edge Stitch of Pocket 2

With the leg face up, edge stitch around the top three sides of the jet pocket to secure it to the pocket bag.

44 Finished Jet Pocket

Give your jet pocket a final press - you've finished! Now repeat the steps for the other side then move on to sewing the fronts!

3 — Constructing the Fronts and Zip Fly

1 All Front Pieces Overlocked

The first step in sewing the fronts is constructing the fly. Take your front pieces and neaten the centre front and inner leg edge of each piece separately. Next, neaten the curved edge of the fly facing.

2 Trim Fly Gaurd Seam
4 Clip into Seam

Take your fly guard pieces and with right sides together, stitch around the curved edge and the buttonhole extension with a 6mm seam, finishing at the notch on the waistline. Clip into the end of the seam at the waistline and trim the corners.

5 Turn Out

Turn the fly guard right side out using a point turner to help then give it a press.

Neaten the long straight edges of the fly guard together.

You can sew the buttonhole on the fly guard now, or wait until you sew the end and sew it at the same time as the waistband buttonhole if you would prefer.
6 Stitched Fly Gaurd

Take your right front leg and the fly facing pieces and with the right sides together, align the straight edge of the fly facing to the centre front edge of the right front leg, matching the notches. Pin them together and then sew with a 1cm seam.

8 Understiched and Pressed Fly Gaurd Detail

Press seam towards the fly facing then understitch. Now put the right leg aside whilst you work on the left leg.

9 Pin Zip
10 Sew Zip

With your left front leg facing up, place the zip right side down on the pattern piece. Align the left edge of the zip tape (as you are looking at it upside down) with the centre front edge of the pattern piece. The zip stop at the bottom of the zip will be at the notch and the tape tails will fall below the notch. Pin the zip in place and then stitch down 6mm from the edge of the zip tape using a zip foot.

12 Attach Fly Gaurd

Now, with your left front leg still face up and the zip face down, place the fly guard on top of the zip so the zip is in between the left leg piece and the fly guard. Make sure the straight edges align and the notches match. Pin together through all layers and stitch them together with a 1cm seam.

14 Press Fly Gaurd
15 Understitch Fly Gaurd

Now, fold the zip and the fly guard out so the zip, fly guard, and left leg are all right side up. Press the left leg piece along the fold line next to the zip teeth then edgestitch on the left front leg down length of the zip.

18 Show Point to Sew
19 Completed Front Crotch

Now we will join the fronts together! Take your right and left front pieces and place them right sides together, aligning the two pieces through the crotch and pin them together.

Sew the crotch closed with a 1cm seam. Start sewing about 5cm from the inner leg and finishing at the notch at the end of the zip. Sew as close as you can to the fly facing seam but take care not to catch the fly facing or fly guard when sewing.

20 Clip into Base
21 Press Open

Clip into the seam allowance on the left side only, at the base of the fly facing. Be careful not to clip through the seam. Press the front crotch seam open.

22 Pull Back Fly Gaurd and Pin
23 Finish Stitching

With your left leg facing up, fold back the fly guard so the zip is showing. you can pin it out of the way if that is helpful. Now, ensuring that everything is lying flat, pin the closed zip to the fly facing. Using a zip foot, sew the zip to the fly facing 6mm from the edge of the zip tape.

26 Mark Top Stitching
24 Pin Fly Gaurd out of Way

Using the fly facing pattern piece as a guide, draw on the shape of your fly top stitching using chalk or fabric pen. Make sure the chalk or pen can brush or wash off easily, so you are not left with marks on the front of your pants! Fold the fly guard out of the way, pinning it if necessary.

27 Mark Stop and Start Point
28 Fly Half Sewn

Pin the fly facing to the front, making sure everything is laying smooth and flat.

Starting at the waist topstitch the fly facing in place. Stop just before you get to the start of the curve.

29 Release Fly Gaurd and Re pin
30 Finish Top Stiching Fly

Now, release the fly guard and lie it flat underneath the zip and fly facing. Pin it to hold it in place.

Starting a couple of stitches up from where you left off, continue sewing the remaining curved section of the fly top stitching, sewing through the right front leg, fly facing, and the fly guard. Stop when you reach the centre front seam and back tack to secure.

31 Finished Fly

Your zip fly is complete! Give it a press before sewing the front pleats and pockets.

32
33

With the right sides together, fold the front pleats in half matching the two notches. From the waist stitch down the pleat, finishing at the + mark indicated on the pattern. Press the pleat excess towards the centre front. The pleat will open to the side seam. Baste the top of the pleat in place at the waist edge, within the seam allowance. Give your pleat a gentle press and repeat for the other side.

1 Overlocked Pocket Barrier

Now we will sew the side pockets. First, neaten the long, un-notched edge of your side pocket bearer piece. Place the wrong side of the pocket bearer to the right side of the pocket bag, matching the notches. Edgestitch around the entire pocket bearer piece to hold it in place.

2 Attached Pocket Bag
3 Understiched

Now, with the right sides together, match up the right front and right pocket bag pieces at the pocket opening and pin in place. Sew this seam and press it towards the pocket bag. Under stitch on the pocket bag.

4 Overstiched

Fold the pocket bag to the inside of the leg along the seam line and press again. Then, topstitch 6mm from the edge along the pocket opening.

6 Pinned Underside
7 Trim

Fold your pocket bag in half at the centre line with the wrong sides together. This is opposite to the way you pressed this piece at the beginning. Pin in the bottom edge closed then sew with a 6mm seam. Carefully trim the seam to 3mm.

8 Turn and Re sew
9 Both Sides Done

Next, turn your pocket out so the right sides are together. Use a point to ensure the corner is fully turned out and give it a press. Sew the bottom edge again at 6mm to create a French seam. Matching the notches, baste the pocket bag to the side seam and waist seam of the front pant piece within the seam allowance. Now repeat for the other pocket.

Your fronts are complete!

4 — Waistband and Belt Loops

2 Press Belt Loops
1 Cut Belt Loops

Next, we will construct the belt loops.

Neaten one long edge of the belt loop pieces with your overlocker, then fold the belt loops into three lengthways with the neatened edge on top. Edgestitch the length of the belt loops on each side then cut belt loops into thirds. You will have six pieces in total.

1 Pin and Sew CB Seam
3 Pressed Open

Now it is time to sew your waistband!

With right sides together pin and sew the centre back seam of the waistband. Do the same with the waistband facing and press seams open.

4 Sew Bias to Wb Facing
6 Pin Bias to Wb Facing 2

Finish the bottom edge of your waistband facing with bias binding. Do this by pinning the right side of the bias binding to the wrong side of the waistband facing. Then, sew along the fold line that is closest to the edge, approximately 6mm. Next, fold the bias binding to the front so the raw edge is enclosed. Make sure the raw edge of the binding is tucked in and pin it closed.

7 Sew Bias to Wb Facing 2

Now, edgestitch the bias binding closed.

You can neaten the waistband facing edge with your overlocker if you would prefer.
8 Pin WB to WB
10 Understitch

With the right sides together, pin the waistband to the waistband facing along the top edge. Sew this seam and then press the seam towards the facing. Under stitch on the waistband facing.

11 Pin and Finish Left End
12 Trim

Now fold your waistband in half lengthwise with right sides together. Pin the short ends closed and then sew them with a 1cm seam. Stop 1cm before the bottom edge.

13 Turn Out
14 Press

Turn your waistband right sides out with the help of a point turner and give it a press.

5 — Assemble the Pants

1 Pin Inner Leg
2 Open and Press Seam

Now it's time to assemble your Cass Pants!

With the right sides together pin the front to the back at the inner seam, matching the notches. Sew and then press the seam open. Repeat for the other leg.

3 Pin Crotch
4 Press Open

With your right sides together complete the crotch seam. Start at the centre back and sew the back curve, continuing to the front, finishing just past where you left off when sewing the fly. Press the seam open.

5 Pin Side Seams
6 Pin Side Seams

Now we will sew the side seams. With the right sides together, pin the left front piece to the left back piece at the side seam matching notches. Sew the seam and then neaten with an overlocker. Press the seam towards the back then repeat for the other leg.

7 Pin Belt Loops
8 Sew Belt Loops

Next, we move on to assembling the waistband and belt loops. It is easiest to work with your pants inside out for the next steps.

Pin your belt loops to the pants as indicated on the pattern. Secure them in place by sewing at the waist and again 2cm from the edge.

9 Attach Waistband

Pin your waistband to the pants matching the notches and centre back seams. Sew the waistband to the pants with the right sides together, leaving the facing free. Now, press the seam up, into the waistband.

10 Pin Waistband
11 Fold Up and Press Waistband

Pin your waistband facing to the waistband to enclose the waist seam. Match up the centre back seam and make sure everything is flat. Folding the bias binding on the seam allowance of the waistband facing back at each end will ensure a tidy finish.

9 Stitch in Ditch

Now, starting at the fly guard, stitch in the ditch to sew the waistband closed, finishing at the fly facing. Make sure you catch the waistband facing on the underside as you sew, and that the belt loops out of the way!

If your machine’s buttonhole foot is particularly long, you may prefer to do your buttonhole now before completing your belt loops so they don't get in the way!
12 Fold Up and Pin Belt Loops
13 Pin Belt Loops

To finish the belt loops, fold the free end of each belt loop under 1cm and pin it in place so the folded edge is aligned with the top of the waistband. Secure the belt loops in place with a row of stitching, back tacking at the beginning and end. You can also bar-tack your belt loops to secure them if your machine has the capability.

14 Finished Belt Loops

Flatten the belt loops and secure the bottom edge with stitching in the same way as the top.

17 Mark Buttonhole
18 Mark Buttonhole 2

If you haven't done so already, now is the time to sew your buttonholes! Mark your buttonholes on the waistband and fly guard extension using the pattern as a guide. If your buttons vary in size to what is recommended you will need to adjust your buttonholes accordingly!

19 Sewn Buttonholes
20 Cut Open Buttonholes

Sew your buttonholes as per your machine's manual and then carefully cut them open.

15 Turn Up Hem

Next, we move on to the hems. At the bottom of your pants, fold under and press the 1cm seam allowance, then fold up another 4cm for the hem. Edgestitch your hem in place and give it a press. Repeat for the other leg.

Depending on the thickness of your fabric you may wish to just overlock the raw hem, and then fold up at the notch to eliminate excess bulk.
21 Attach Inside Fly Button
22 Attach Front Button

Now for the finishing touches, you are almost there!

Sew your buttons on the waistband, as indicated on the pattern. When sewing on the internal button, take extra care that the stitches do not come through to the right side.

23 Attach Jet Pocket Button

Sew a button on each jet pocket.

24 Hang Front
25 Hang Back

Now, clip your loose threads and give your garment a final press. You are all complete!

Check out the Cass Pant pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

Cass makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSCassPant so others can check out your creations!