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Make by TFS

Sparrow Pant + Short— Sew Along

Sparrow Pant + Short— Sew Along

1 — Pre-Pressing

Time to start sewing your Sparrow Pant or Short! We are making the pant in this sew along, but the steps are the same if you are sewing the short.

1 Front waist band pressing
2 front leg waist band folded

First, take the front pieces and fold the waist edge over 1cm to the wrong side, and press. Fold the waist edge over another 5cm to the wrong side as indicated by the notches, and press. The finished waist depth is 5cm.

6 front hem pressing one hand
8 pressing hem with card

Fold the bottom hem of each front over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 6cm to the wrong side and press. The finished hem depth is 6cm.

When pressing, try using a piece of light card to help achieve a nice, crisp edge.
3 back leg pressing
4 back leg waist band folded

Next, take the back pieces and fold the waist edge over 1cm to the wrong side, and press. Fold the waist edge over another 5cm to the wrong side as indicated by the notches, and press. The finished waist depth is 5cm.

5 hem pressing two hands
7 front hem turn back two hands

Fold the bottom hem of each back over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 6cm to the wrong side and press. The finished hem depth is 6cm.

9 pre pressing tie

We will now press your drawstring pieces. Fold the pieces in half lengthways with the wrong sides together and press. Unfold and then fold the outer edges in 1cm in meeting at the centre crease line. Press. Fold your drawstring in half lengthways and press again. Your finished piece will measure 1cm in width.

10 button hole fusing flipped

If you are adding a drawstring to your pants, you may want to apply fusible interfacing at the buttonholes. Adding interfacing will add stability and strength to the buttonhole area.

On each front, fuse a 2.5cm x 2.5cm piece of interfacing to the wrong side where the buttonholes are located. There is a Buttonhole Template included with your pattern to guide you.

2 — Drawstring and Pockets

11 button hole marking
Sparrow pants button template
Drawstring

On each front, mark the buttonhole at the centre front, using the pattern piece as a guide.

1 button hole close up

Sew each 1.5cm buttonhole as per your sewing machine’s manual.

4 cutting button holes 2 hands

Now, carefully cut each buttonhole open.

6 tie seam

With the right sides together, pin the drawstring pieces together at the short end. Sew with a 1cm seam and press open.

If your drawstring is in more than two pieces, repeat this step to join them all together.

8 tie end pining

Fold the long outer edges of the drawstring in 1cm to meet in the centre, wrong sides together.
Next, fold the drawstring in half with the right sides together. This is the opposite to your pre-pressing at the beginning, and the raw edges will be visible. Pin the end to hold it in place.

9 cutting tie end

Stitch each end closed at 1cm and then trim the seam to 5mm.

10 turning though tie end
11 tie stitched

Turn the drawstring right side out so the raw edges are enclosed.

Edge stitch the drawstring closed along the entire length.

12 pockets pinned
Pockets

Now we will sew the pockets.

Place one pocket bag onto the front with the right sides together and pin together at notches marked ‘pocket opening’.

14 pocket cutting close up

Stitch a box with your sewing machine from notch to notch. Starting at one of the notches, stitch in 1cm. With the needle down, turn 90 degrees and continue stitching at 1cm, parallel to the edge. When you reach the next notch, stop with your needle down and turn 90 degrees and sew to the edge. You will have created a stitched box along the pocket opening.

Next, you need to mitre into the upper and lower corners of the box. Do this by snipping into each corner at a 45-degree angle, using very sharp scissors and taking care not to cut into your stitch line.

15 sewing the pocket
16 pocket

Fold the entire pocket bag over towards the wrong side of the fabric and press along the edge of the pocket opening. Under stitch the pocket opening from corner to corner and press again.

17 pocket with hand pinning

Lay the other pocket piece on top, right sides together and matching the notches. Pin it in place.

18 pocket overlocked

Sew the pocket bags together around the long, curved edge with a 1cm seam.

Neaten this curved edge.

20 pocket front leg view close up

Baste the pocket bag to the front, either side of the pocket opening.

21 pocket inside

Your finished pocket will look like this from the wrong side.

Repeat for the pocket on the other side.

3 — Assemble Leg and Finishing Touches

1 pinning front and back
2 overlocked side seams
Assemble Legs

With the right sides together, pin the front to the back at the side seam. Sew the side seam with a 1cm seam. Take care near the pocket edge not to accidently catch the pocket opening in this seam. You can either pin it back a little, or tuck it under as you get close to it. Neaten the seam and then repeat for the other side.

Press the seams towards the back.

Trouser innerleg seam

With the right sides together, pin the front to the back at the inner leg. Sew with a 1cm seam then neaten.

Repeat for the other leg.

Press seams towards the back.

3 putting legs inside one another

We will now join the two legs together.

With one leg inside out, place the other leg, right side out, inside the first leg so the right sides are together.

4 pinning crutch
5 crutch overlock

Pin the two legs together through the crotch seam, matching the seams and notches. Sew together with a 1cm seam. Neaten the seam and then press it to one side.

7 pinning waist band hands
Elastic Waist

Next, we will create the casing for the waist elastic.

Fold the waist edge over 1cm, then over another 5cm as per your pressing at the beginning. Pin it in place.

New 8 waist band stiching

Edge stitch the casing closed, leaving a 5cm opening at centre back.

9 threading elastic
10 pinning elastic

Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the casing. Pin the ends together securely with a 2cm overlap. Now try them on to check they are sitting comfortably and adjust the elastic as needed.

12 elastic sewn

Once everything is comfortable, double-check that the elastic is not twisted, then sew the ends of the elastic together with a 2cm overlap.

13 pinning wasit band closed
15 waist band close up finished

Pin the opening closed, and then edge stitch.

When edge stitching the opening closed, you may find it easier to use a zip foot to get in close to the elastic.
16 hem pressed
17 pinnning hem
Hems and Finishing Touches

Fold back the hem 1cm, and then a further 6cm at the notches, as per your pressing at the beginning.

18 showing hem

Pin in place then edge stitch to close.

Repeat for both legs.

14 threading drawstring

Thread the drawstring through with a safety pin or bodkin. Make sure the tie is sitting flat in the waistband and the ends are even.

19 sewing elastic at back seam
21 back view elastic waist band

Ditch stitch at the centre back in the waist seam to secure the drawstring.

Trouser hang shot

Trim any loose threads and give your pant or short a press!

Your Sparrow Pant or Short is complete!

Check out the Sparrow Pant + Short pattern in our Online Store here. We also have the Sparrow Shirt pattern so you can sew the Sparrow Set!

Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!

Sparrow makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSSparrowPant or #TFSSparrowShort so others can check out your creations!