Welcome to our Make by TFS August Skirt pattern sew along! In this post, we go through interfacing/pre-pressing steps, sewing the fronts, and back, attaching the waistband and belt loops, assembly and hemming.
Check out the August Skirt pattern in our Online Store here. Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
P.s
August makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSAugustSkirt so others can check out your creations!
Step 1 — Interfacing and Pre-Pressing
To ensure accuracy, and to save time, we recommend block fusing your waistband and waistband facing before you begin sewing. Block fusing is when you apply fusible interfacing to a section fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces. Doing it this way mean your pieces won’t stretch out of shape, which can happen if you piece fuse after. It also saves a bit of time as you only need to cut out once!
Once you have block fused your main fabric, trace around the waistband and waistband facing pieces and cut them out.
If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don't stretch out of shape.
We recommend that you use an iron to press some areas of your pieces before you begin sewing. This will help to ensure accuracy as you sew and aid in giving your August Skirt a neat and tidy finish.
Start by taking your front and back pieces and pressing the hem seam allowance up 1cm towards the wrong side as indicated by the notch. Next fold the hem up a further 8cm, in line with the notches, and press again. Your finished hem depth will measure 8cm.
Fold your belt loop pieces into thirds lengthwise as indicated by the notches with right side out. Your finished belt loop pieces will measure 1.4cm wide.
Press your side pocket bags in half at the centre notches, right sides together.
Press your zip guard in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.
Now it is time to sew! Move on to constructing the backs.
Step 2 — Constructing the Backs
Sewing the pleats
It’s easiest to create your pleats by working from the centre back, out to the side seam. Take a back piece and have it right side up in front of you. Working with the 3 notches closest to centre back, match the two outer notches with the right sides together. Next you will sew the pleat down 3.5cm from the waist edge. You may find it helpful to mark your stitching line on with tailor's chalk or fabric pen before you sew.
Now pin in your pleat in place, then sew from the notch down 3.5cm on the wrong side.
Bring the centre notch and pleat seam together then press flat to create an inverted pleat. Baste your pleat in place at the waist edge.
Now, working towards the side seam, bring the next two notches together. Mark on your stitching line, running 3.5cm from the waist seam.
Pin and then sew your pleat 3.5cm down from the notch. Create a total of 2 pleats in this way. Baste these pleats in place at the waist edge so they open towards the centre back and the pleat excess is towards the side seam.
Give your pleats a gentle press and repeat for the other side.
Inserting the invisible zip
It is now time to insert the zip.
Start by sewing the zip guard. Fold it in half lengthwise with the right sides together, then sew the lower, angled edge with a 6mm seam. Turn it out with the help of a point turner and give it a press. Neaten the the long, raw edges of the zip guard together.
Next, neaten the centre back edges of your back skirt pieces separately.
Now lay a back piece in front of you, right side up. Then pin in place the open zip, face down, aligning the edge of the zip tape with the centre back edge of the skirt.