Welcome to our Make by TFS Sparrow Shirt pattern sew along! In this post, we go through block fusing/pre-pressing steps, sewing the fronts, assembly and collar, hem and finishing touches.
Check out the Sparrow Shirt pattern in our Online Store here. We also have the Sparrow Pant + Short pattern so you can sew the Sparrow Set!
Don't forget you can always email us via patterns@thefabricstore.co.nz if you need advice!
P.s
Sparrow makes from our wonderful community are also popping up over on Instagram, follow @makebytfs and use #TFSSparrowShirt so others can check out your creations!
Step 1 — Block Fusing and Pre-Pressing
We are making the long sleeve shirt in this sew along, but the steps are the same if you are sewing the short sleeve shirt.
Depending on your fabric you may choose to interface the collar, upper placket and under placket pieces.
This can be done by block fusing or piece fusing.
Block fusing is a fusing technique whereby you apply your interfacing to a section of fabric prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It helps avoid interfacing slippage and stops your pattern pieces from stretching out of shape, and therefore ensures accuracy. It also means you only need to cut your pieces out once. Block fusing does require you to group all the pattern pieces requiring interfacing together when you cut out your pattern however, so you may require additional fabric.
If you do not wish to block fuse, you can piece fuse these pattern pieces. This means cutting out each pattern piece in both interfacing and your main fabric and then applying the interfacing to each piece separately. If you choose to piece fuse keep your pattern pieces close by for reference and make sure they don’t stretch out of shape.
Fold the collar piece in half with the wrong sides together at the notch and press.
Take the sleeves and fold the cuff edge over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Fold the cuff edge over another 6cm to the wrong side as indicated by the notches, and press. The finished cuff depth is 6cm.
Fold the hem of the front over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 6cm to the wrong side and press. The finished hem depth is 6cm.
Fold the hem of the back over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 6cm to the wrong side and press. The finished hem depth is 6cm.
Fold the top of the pocket over 1cm to the wrong side and press. Then, as indicated by the notches, fold the hem up another 3cm to the wrong side and press. The finished depth will measure 3cm.
Next up, we will sew the shirt front, including the placket and the pocket.
Step 2 — Sew Front
Fold the top of the pocket towards the wrong side 1cm, then again 3cm as indicated by the notches. Your pre-pressing steps will help with this. Edge stitch closed and press.
Sew a line of machine basting stitching around the remaining three raw edges of the pocket piece at 1cm.
Then, fold back and press the edges using the stitching to help guide you.
Transfer the pocket markings from the pattern piece to the left front (as you are wearing it) of your shirt.
Pin the pocket aligning it to the markings you have just made and then edge stitch the pocket in place.
Placket
On the upper placket, sew a line of machine basting stitches at 1cm along the left, long side. Fold back and press this edge to the wrong side using the stitching to guide you.
We will now mark in some stitching and slash lines using a fabric pen, or tailor’s chalk.
On the upper placket, mark in the stitching line on the wrong side.
This runs 1.2cm from the edge, starting at the neck and finishes at the notch near the bottom of the placket.
On the under placket, mark in the stitching line on the wrong side.
This runs 1.2cm from the edge, starting at the neck and finishes 4.5cm from the bottom of the placket.