Genevieve from The Fabric Store HQ team has recently been on the hunt for her dream trench coat pattern and jumped at the chance to review the Ulysses Trench by Victory Patterns using our Heavyweight ‘Deep Olive’ Linen. It’s been a few years since she last made a trench but she found this pattern an excellent re-introduction back into the wonderful world of coats!
Pattern Review
Ulysses Trench by Victory Patterns
This is a winner of a pattern and soon our HQ team is likely to all be clad in versions of this for the winter months ahead! Genevieve found the instructions to be very well detailed, offering an in-depth glossary of terms and techniques, how to lengthen and shorten your garment properly as well as a prep list and a good measurement chart. This pattern calls for an intermediate sewer as it requires the construction of a back vent, set-in-sleeves and bias bound seams. Genevieve made her trench up in a size Small and found the sizing to be true to form. It’s a relaxed yet modern take on a classic trench coat style, with a clean shawl collar as well as some beautiful traditional details such as epaulettes and a back rain-guard overlay!
The Ulysses Trench pattern is available to purchase as a hard copy or a print-at-home PDF download from the Victory Patterns website.
The back overlay is bias cut to give it a beautiful flute, so Genevieve put a basting stitch through the hem of this piece at 6mm on a wider stitch, to stop the seam from ‘growing’ as she sewed the two layers together.
Fabric Recommendations
Heavyweight Linen – ‘Deep Olive’ plus Liberty Bias Binding – Annabel A
Genevieve knew that linen would be a wonderful choice for this pattern and she selected ‘Deep Olive’ – a beautiful heavyweight colour from our exclusive linen collection.
This pattern would also be super cool (and snuggly) sewn up in one of our wool coatings for colder climates or for a chic evening look could be made up in a silk dupioni or wool blend suiting. As well as being easy to sew, linen fabric has a lovely earthy feel, starting off crisp but softening beautifully in time. Because linen is inherently strong, products made using linen also have a long life-cycle and once the life is well worn from the linen, it is biodegradable and recyclable! You can read more about this incredible fibre here.
Alternative fabric suggestions: Mustard Linen, Silk Crepe de Chine – Cadet Grey, Linen Oversize Check – Umber, Japanese Wool Suiting – Camel & Wool Coating – Oatmeal
This pattern calls for a lightweight fusible interfacing and a compatible lining fabric. Genevieve chose to line her trench with the same ‘Deep Olive’ linen as the outer, giving it a lovely weight and drape. She did note however that if you were to make this pattern up in a coating, it would be best to use a lighter lining, such as a traditional lining fabric or a luxe silk satin to avoid bulk.
Another hidden detail that Genevieve added to give the trench a special surprise was some Liberty binding to the armholes. She picked Annabel A, one of our new ready-made bias bindings which have just arrived in store and online here.
The epaulettes call for feature buttons! Genevieve chose some giant daisy buttons she picked up at the Liberty of London store on her travels to Europe. Buttons make a great souvenir when travelling!
Genevieve was super excited with the end result of this project and can’t recommend this pattern enough!
The trench is a classic relaxed cut that will look amazing paired with everything from your fave pant and tee combo to a delicate dress or skirt!
If you give this pattern a try be sure to share it with us on Instagram @wearethefabricstore using #thefabricstore